As the sun shines down
Upon my pale face
I wait
And wait
And wait
And finally
It comes.
The wave
The one I was waiting for
The perfect size
It moves quickly
I stiffen my body
Look straight ahead
See the shoreline
Distant
The dark blue and frothy water
Carries me to shore
As I feel the excitement
Coursing through my veins.
The feeling takes me away
Into a world of unmatched serendipity
After which
I proceed to do a faceplant
Into the wet, and surprisingly sharp,
Grains of sand.
I lift my head
Stand up
Spit out sand
Wait
And yell,
“That was awesome!”
After which
I spit out more sand.